Our skin is ever dynamic. Emerging from the hormonal changes of adolescence, we recommend to start preventive anti-aging skincare in your 20's and evolve your skincare routine as you get older and your skin ages.

• 20's — prevent premature aging of the skin
• 30's — preventive, with more consistent use of products with active ingredients in the morning & evening
• 40's+ — deep hydration + products to address skin elasticity, wrinkles, age spots & uneven pigmentation

Skincare products act on the epidermis, the outermost layer of skin, with some active ingredients able to penetrate the dermis to a limited extent. To visibly address deeper signs of aging, deeper skin penetration is required, which currently must be done through clinical treatments. The use of quality, well-formulated skincare products following clinical treatments ensures that you maintain improvements for a longer period of time.

Since the main function of our skin is to act as a protective barrier, the main challenge of skincare products is penetration of active ingredients through the epidermis (while the main challenge of supplements is reaching the skin after ingestion). Significant research is currently being focused on innovative delivery mechanisms of skincare ingredients.

Below are our skincare recommendations by aging skin concern:

• Skin elasticity & sagging
• Wrinkles
• Age spots, uneven pigmentation & dull skin
• Redness & rosacea
• Dryness & rough skin

To clarify, by sun protection we mean protection from the ultraviolet (UV) rays of the sun, not complete avoidance of sunlight. Our bodies need sunlight to produce vitamin D, which is fundamental to proper bone development, growth and mental health.

Consistent sun protection is the most effective anti-aging skincare. It is never too late to protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun's UV rays. Even older skin can benefit from sun protection, reducing further photoaging — ie, development of new wrinkles, age spots, further loss of skin elasticity, and redness (as well as lower skin cancer risk).

A clinical study published in 2013 (Annals of Internal Medicine, Vol. 158, n.11) showed that daily sunscreen use significantly slows skin aging, including the development of wrinkles, even for middle-aged women and men.

Without consistent UV protection, the efficacy of all other anti-aging efforts can be seriously compromised. Daily sunscreen use should be the cornerstone of any anti-aging skincare routine. Also avoid the sun during peak sunlight hours during the summer and wear a hat, sunglasses and protective clothing when the sun is particularly strong.

Lower skin elasticity is due to the following that occur as we age:

1. Loss of collagen & elastin leading to thinning of the skin
2. Lower production of hyaluronic acid leading to loss of moisture in the skin.

In addition to genetics, lifestyle & skincare play a significant role in the likelihood and speed of skin aging. Loss of skin elasticity is accelerated by skin damage due to sun/UV exposure, pollutants, dry climates, smoking, sleep deprivation, diet, fluid intake, stress and hormonal changes following menopause.

Science-backed skincare ingredients for improving skin elasticity & firmness include:

• CERAMIDES — Ceramides are part of a complex of fats, or lipids, in your skin, which decrease with age. Ceramides are fundamental to keeping the skin barrier intact and contributing to firmer, more hydrated, more youthful looking skin. Topical ceramide skincare products & supplements are effective at boosting ceramide levels.
• HYALURONIC ACID (HA) — HA helps hydrate the skin and provides an immediate plumping effect. As HA is a well-established effective hydrating skincare ingredient, it can be found in many skincare products.
• POLYGLUTAMIC ACID (PGA) — PGA is a water-soluble, non-irritating and non-sensitising peptide. PGA is an amazingly effective humectant (ie, able to attract & retain moisture) and chelator (ie, bind to & remove heavy metals from the skin) and helps increase the production of HA. A compound naturally found in jellyfish, PGA in skincare is typically derived from fermented soybean.
• AHAs — Alpha-hydroxy acids are a water-soluble chemical exfoliant that stimulate collagen synthesis & skin cell renewal, thereby improving skin firmness & elasticity. AHAs are recommended for normal to dry and sun-damaged skin.
• BHAs — Beta-hydroxy acids are an oil-soluble chemical exfoliant that stimulate collagen synthesis & skin cell renewal. BHAs are able to penetrate pores and therefore are recommended for normal to oily skin but are also gentle enough for sensitive skin.

Emerging ingredients showing promise include:

• PEPTIDES — Peptides are chains of amino acids that stimulate protein synthesis, including collagen. There are a number of different types of peptides, with a limited number of clinical studies demonstrating that topical collagen peptides can improve skin elasticity. However, because of its high molecular weight, collagen synthesis on the surface of the skin is unable to penetrate to the dermal layer, which may limit their efficacy compared to oral or other methods of collagen therapy. In general, skincare products with peptides shouldn't be mixed with AHAs in order to maintain efficacy and skin pH balance.
• EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTORS (EGF) — EGF are large proteins that promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin and aid in tissue repair. The efficacy of topical EGF in skincare products is not yet clear and will require more clinical studies.
• EXOSOMES — Exosomes, extracellular nanonvesicles, are able to induce cell regeneration. To date, most anti-aging benefits have been seen from the injection of exosomes derived from stem cells. Effective topical delivery is the new frontier.

Wrinkles form as a result of decreased skin elasticity.

The following ingredients promote collagen production and help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles:

• RETINOIDS (vitamin A), including retinols and retinals. — The strongest retinoids require a medical prescription. Retinoids may not be suitable for people with skin allergies, redness, inflammation or dryness. Pregnant & breastfeeding women should not use retinoids. That said, retinoids are clinically proven to reduce fine lines and shallow wrinkles by promoting collagen production. Start at lower concentrations and frequency and slowly increase as your skin adjusts. For visible improvement, retinoids must be used for at least 3 months or more. Use has to be continual to maintain benefits. Avoid using it with AHA, BHA and benzoyl peroxide.
• BAKUCHIOL — Derived from the psoralea corylifolia (babchi), a plant used in Chinese and Indian traditional medicine, bakuchiol is considered a safer alternative to vitamin A/retinoids. A 2018 clinical study demonstrated that bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in effectiveness against photoaging but with better skin tolerance. This ingredient is suitable for pregnant & breastfeeding women.
• VITAMIN C — The antioxidant & brightening benefits of vitamin C are common knowledge, but scientific understanding of vitamin C on skin function is still emerging. A 2017 clinical study suggests that topical vitamin C can promote collagen production and be effective in minimising the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but efficacy depends on the formulation.

We recommend products with vitamin C and gentle chemical exfoliation to reduce age spots, improve uneven skin pigmentation and to brighten dull skin. Use a hydrating serum and/or moisturiser to ensure that your skin has adequate levels of oil and water. Apply broad spectrum sunscreen on a daily basis and limit sun exposure to prevent the development of additonal age spots.

As your skin ages, it can become more easily red and irritated. In addition to avoiding alcohol, fragrances, AHA and other harsh acids, we recommend skincare products that are hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic and fragrance-free.

Ingredients to help reduce redness include: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, azelaic acid, centella asiatica, green tea and antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E.

Below are recommended essences & serums for aging, sensitive skin.

As skin ages, sebum production decreases and the skin becomes dry more easily. Skin may crack and become painful, itchy & rough. Previously oily skin may become combination skin, requiring moisturiser on the cheeks or other areas of the skin.

Jojoba oil, which acts like oil naturally found in skin, is an effective moisturising ingredient containing vitamin E, which is non-comedogenic and non-irritating.

In addition to adapting your skincare products & routine, we recommend drinking enough water, using a humidifier when the air is dry, taking shorter showers/baths with water that isn't too hot, and moisturising morning & evening.

Below is our selection of moisturisers for more mature skin.